Pitbike Disk Rear Hand Brake

[JimG]

ok ill put up sum pics as soon as i can,IT WORKS GREAt!but it was very expensive...well worth it in my opinion..heres what i did. first i orderd this...
http://www.pccmotor.com/rear-brake-a...-crf55050.html
the master cylinder here actually accepts the honda style junction valve from gp tech. i tested it to be sure.perfect fit.if you wanna go that route.i chose not to.

then i orderd this
http://www.pccmotor.com/atv-brake-as...009.html..this this set came with a huge caliper.enough for a 4 wheeler ..which for a handbrake is great!....but the master on this set suckd.and couldnt be combined with a ez pull clutch. so i replaced it with a factory front handbrake master cylinder from a yzf 600.it has a seperate fluid resivoir which can work upside down..
again sorry no pics.my pc is ancient. next i purchased a disc rear rim...
next i installd the foot brake system the way it would be from the factory.using the block on the inside brakeside of the swingarm. i then cut a bracket out of aluminum and mounted the atv caliper right behind the foot brake caliper. drilled sum holes in the caliper brackets and connected the 2 with some short bolts and locknuts. on a stock 50 this would require a bracket to hold up the foot master cylinder as well.mine was on a pit bike which had the mounts already. costly but nasty setup
rim/rotor-65
pit bikee foot brake system-45
atv rear brake system-45
1/4 " peice of aluminum/nuts/bolts/brake fluid-10
a whole bunch of shipping -50

[JimG]

in order to buy all this shit it would cost over 400.and thats not including shipping..i already had the master cylinder i used for the handbrake.and a msr raptor.those 2 items alone would be about $100-$210 depending on where u get them.and u would need the skills to turn a sheet of metal into a bracket and space out all the differences. and the skills to bleed 2 sets of brakes.if u have the time and money its well worth it.i did this on my pit bike with a 16 inch swingarm and tall bars/risers and all the hoses fit perfect and everything worked out ..so best of luck !hope this helps some people with handbrake questions

[Crazy D]

I have a douglass billet with a special piece to use instead of the brake panel so you can bolt on a mountain bike rotor and juicy avid bike setup . It works ok but you can tell it really gets hot and the mountain pads are super tiny . It's more cool lookin then anything else . I don't think i would try another mountain bike setup unless the rotor was alot thicker . Mine is super thin .

[CHILI]

I would love disc brakes on my fiddy too, but i fail to see the need. I have stock brakes with upgraded pads on the rear and mine works just fine. I even made my own HB. Would love to have a 50stunt HB, but never felt like spending the money. Disc brakes on a fiddy seems like overkill. My drum brakes work great- coasters, HCs, circles, street, lot, whatever. No way i would spend a few hundred dollars on a brake setup on a bike that only costs $500 to begin with

[Towlieee]

Originally Posted by CHILI

I would love disc brakes on my fiddy too, but i fail to see the need. I have stock brakes with upgraded pads on the rear and mine works just fine. I even made my own HB. Would love to have a 50stunt HB, but never felt like spending the money. Disc brakes on a fiddy seems like overkill. My drum brakes work great- coasters, HCs, circles, street, lot, whatever. No way i would spend a few hundred dollars on a brake setup on a bike that only costs $500 to begin with

I had over $3500 into my 50, and mine was still far from finished. Ofroaders will often tiems dump $10,000 into a 50!

I think disk brakes would have been dope, I could just never afford them. Even after sanding my drusm, they worked ok, but my hand brake wouldn't bring it off the bar. I had to use my foot AND hand to bring it off the bar most the time.

[JimG]

its not overkill.i think its perfect.i mean who wouldnt want as much braking power as possible.when doing stalls..circles.3rd gear straights.....i just wish it was more easily affordable to people....the amount of $ i have into my 50 and 110 are totally rediculous.

[BirDMaN420]

Originally Posted by JimG

ok ill put up sum pics as soon as i can,IT WORKS GREAt!but it was very expensive...well worth it in my opinion..heres what i did. first i orderd this...
http://www.pccmotor.com/rear-brake-a...-crf55050.html
the master cylinder here actually accepts the honda style junction valve from gp tech. i tested it to be sure.perfect fit.if you wanna go that route.i chose not to.

then i orderd this
http://www.pccmotor.com/atv-brake-as...009.html..this this set came with a huge caliper.enough for a 4 wheeler ..which for a handbrake is great!....but the master on this set suckd.and couldnt be combined with a ez pull clutch. so i replaced it with a factory front handbrake master cylinder from a yzf 600.it has a seperate fluid resivoir which can work upside down..
again sorry no pics.my pc is ancient. next i purchased a disc rear rim...
next i installd the foot brake system the way it would be from the factory.using the block on the inside brakeside of the swingarm. i then cut a bracket out of aluminum and mounted the atv caliper right behind the foot brake caliper. drilled sum holes in the caliper brackets and connected the 2 with some short bolts and locknuts. on a stock 50 this would require a bracket to hold up the foot master cylinder as well.mine was on a pit bike which had the mounts already. costly but nasty setup
rim/rotor-65
pit bikee foot brake system-45
atv rear brake system-45
1/4 " peice of aluminum/nuts/bolts/brake fluid-10
a whole bunch of shipping -50

Thanx for the explanation dude! Much appreciated.
Just to clear up, in my situation, since i already have the rear disc brake with the foot brake working fine, is run that upside down front (or atv rear/left) brake lever to the back brake, and make another mounting to fit the extra caliper? Was a little confused by your explanation

[CHILI]

Originally Posted by JimG

its not overkill.i think its perfect.i mean who wouldnt want as much braking power as possible.when doing stalls..circles.3rd gear straights.....i just wish it was more easily affordable to people....the amount of $ i have into my 50 and 110 are totally rediculous.

I can stall, circle, etc. just fine on my factory brakes and CHP non-fade pads. But the more we talk about it, the more i want it

[JimG]

Originally Posted by BirDMaN420

Thanx for the explanation dude! Much appreciated.
Just to clear up, in my situation, since i already have the rear disc brake with the foot brake working fine, is run that upside down front (or atv rear/left) brake lever to the back brake, and make another mounting to fit the extra caliper? Was a little confused by your explanation

exactly.the rear caliper on your bike is on a bracket that your axle goes through rite?.bolt a peice of metal to that that can hold another caliper. i took sum pics today of the whole process.ill post them asap,this old pc wont recognize my sd card for sum reason

[bombsquad]

I have a hydro handbrake on my pitbike, using a cbr1000 hydro clutch lever with braded line to stock pitbike calliper. Its not the best for braking force but the callipers shitty so gonna try a twinpot one.
Still does the job well though and has saved my arse from looping out heaps of times