11-26-2012, 01:46 AM
DIY Servo Bypass/Removal/FI light fix 05/06 636
... From servobuddy ... this should work for ...
2004-2013 ZX10R
2005-2013 ZX6R (And 636)
2003-2006 ZX636
2007-2012 Z750
2007-2013 Z1000
2007-2013 Ninja 1000
I did a lot of research on this from the zx6r forum (and found a 16 page thread with a lot of information spread throughout). I then had to read thoroughly through the mess of posts (since the first post was an intermittent fix and did not consistently bypass the servo). I also researched on other forums zx-10r.net and others.
In the end I have found the solution and I am sharing an easy tutorial with you.
Disclaimer: I do not claim responsibility and will not fix your bike if you break/burn/explode it as a result of this tutorial.
What you need:
Pic of my supplies (epoxy was a mess, took forever to dry, and overall sucked... I ended up using hot glue)
Removing servo from stunt 636
Shotout to my "wheelie cool", simple green (because it's awesome), and to burger king for its 55'th anniversary of the whopper.
Cut the harness from the servo... (then cut and electrical tape the grey and white wires as you do not need them)
Solder the 330 ohm resistor to the positive and negative side of the capacitor.
Solder the yellow wire to the 4.7k ohm resistor then to the positive side of the capacitor.
-- Solder the black wire to the negative side of the capacitor (after the 330 ohm resistor that is connected between the positive and negative side of the capacitor)
-- Solder the red wire to the 220 ohm resistor then solder it to the top of the positive side of the capacitor.
-- Again you cut and electrical tape the white and grey wires as they are not needed
I tested it and it successfully removed the FI light so I ran back to radioshack bought one more capacitor then removed the servo from the streetbike.
Pic of me cutting the harness from the servo and then cutting the white and grey wires (and electrical taping them).
Once successful in connecting all the wires... from the streetbike servo harness... I tested/confirmed it worked and then hot glued the connections to ensure they do not come loose and are protected.
Do not hot glue the connections until you test it... otherwise you may have to start all over. Just make sure you solder your connections well while being careful not to burn your capacitor/resistors and you should be fine, but I suggest you still test it before hot glue.
COMPLETED...
(When I installed them I electrical taped the circuit to the existing wiring harness under the seat to try to keep the new connections from bouncing around)
... From servobuddy ... this should work for ...
2004-2013 ZX10R
2005-2013 ZX6R (And 636)
2003-2006 ZX636
2007-2012 Z750
2007-2013 Z1000
2007-2013 Ninja 1000
I did a lot of research on this from the zx6r forum (and found a 16 page thread with a lot of information spread throughout). I then had to read thoroughly through the mess of posts (since the first post was an intermittent fix and did not consistently bypass the servo). I also researched on other forums zx-10r.net and others.
In the end I have found the solution and I am sharing an easy tutorial with you.
Disclaimer: I do not claim responsibility and will not fix your bike if you break/burn/explode it as a result of this tutorial.
What you need:
- Wire cutters & strippers
- Soldering Iron & solder
- 1/2 watt 220 ohm resistor (red, red, brown, gold) ($1.19 at radioshack)
- 1/2 watt 4.7k ohm resistor (yellow, purple, red, gold) ($1.19 at radioshack)
- 330 ohm 1/4w 5% tolerance resistor ($1.19 at radioshack)
- 470 microfarad (uF) w/35v max capacitor ($1.39 at radioshack)
- servo motor harness
- epoxy or hot glue (hot glue turned out to be MUCH better)
- electrical tape
Pic of my supplies (epoxy was a mess, took forever to dry, and overall sucked... I ended up using hot glue)
Removing servo from stunt 636
Shotout to my "wheelie cool", simple green (because it's awesome), and to burger king for its 55'th anniversary of the whopper.
Cut the harness from the servo... (then cut and electrical tape the grey and white wires as you do not need them)
Solder the 330 ohm resistor to the positive and negative side of the capacitor.
Solder the yellow wire to the 4.7k ohm resistor then to the positive side of the capacitor.
-- Solder the black wire to the negative side of the capacitor (after the 330 ohm resistor that is connected between the positive and negative side of the capacitor)
-- Solder the red wire to the 220 ohm resistor then solder it to the top of the positive side of the capacitor.
-- Again you cut and electrical tape the white and grey wires as they are not needed
I tested it and it successfully removed the FI light so I ran back to radioshack bought one more capacitor then removed the servo from the streetbike.
Pic of me cutting the harness from the servo and then cutting the white and grey wires (and electrical taping them).
Once successful in connecting all the wires... from the streetbike servo harness... I tested/confirmed it worked and then hot glued the connections to ensure they do not come loose and are protected.
Do not hot glue the connections until you test it... otherwise you may have to start all over. Just make sure you solder your connections well while being careful not to burn your capacitor/resistors and you should be fine, but I suggest you still test it before hot glue.
COMPLETED...
(When I installed them I electrical taped the circuit to the existing wiring harness under the seat to try to keep the new connections from bouncing around)
Originally Posted by kostasbaleno
