11-01-2012, 12:55 PM
Disclaimer: Do the following at your own risk. You assume responsibility for your bike. I'm not responsible for rev limiter coasters, hitting the lotto for 100 million, your girlfriend leaving you because you spend all day at the spot, or any other crazy shit.
I've been meaning to post this and several other things for a while but been busy so over next few days I'm going to try and share them. I've had this on my bike for months and had no issues other than listed below....
First of all this works fine but you will need to either unhook the gauge cluster after you adjust to the idle you want or do the following(thanks Tyson) or the idle goes nuts, I'm talking creeping up to 8k nuts. Also sorry for sideways pics, photobucket is lame.
I put that first so you would read it. Here's the tools and parts you will need to do this:
Tools:
-Allen wrenches(very small one to remove stopper in TB)
-Socket wrenches
-screw drivers
Parts:
-You can use several stock Honda idle cables, I used one from an F2( part# 16029-mv9-670). Here's where I got it, cost me $15 shipped if I remember:
http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts...9-MV9-670.html
Step 1:Remove the fairings, air box, etc all the way to the throttle boddies. This is the hardest part, Honda wraps everything around the airbox.
Should see this now:

Next remove this bolt, this is where your idle cable will screw into


Now screw your idle cable in:

From here you just have to decide where and how you want to route the cable just make sure it doesn't get pinched or stuck otherwise you'll be taking everything back apart. If you're not FF, there's plenty of room to run it straight back and to the left. It's so open there you could almost put a small cooler in there.

Hope this helps, enjoy.
I've been meaning to post this and several other things for a while but been busy so over next few days I'm going to try and share them. I've had this on my bike for months and had no issues other than listed below....
First of all this works fine but you will need to either unhook the gauge cluster after you adjust to the idle you want or do the following(thanks Tyson) or the idle goes nuts, I'm talking creeping up to 8k nuts. Also sorry for sideways pics, photobucket is lame.
I put that first so you would read it. Here's the tools and parts you will need to do this:
Tools:
-Allen wrenches(very small one to remove stopper in TB)
-Socket wrenches
-screw drivers
Parts:
-You can use several stock Honda idle cables, I used one from an F2( part# 16029-mv9-670). Here's where I got it, cost me $15 shipped if I remember:
http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts...9-MV9-670.html
Step 1:Remove the fairings, air box, etc all the way to the throttle boddies. This is the hardest part, Honda wraps everything around the airbox.
Should see this now:

Next remove this bolt, this is where your idle cable will screw into


Now screw your idle cable in:

From here you just have to decide where and how you want to route the cable just make sure it doesn't get pinched or stuck otherwise you'll be taking everything back apart. If you're not FF, there's plenty of room to run it straight back and to the left. It's so open there you could almost put a small cooler in there.

Hope this helps, enjoy.



