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So my friends 600rr hit the crank bearings on #2 and 3. Did not run outa oil it seems. Crank had some strange black burning marks running from the journal in the direction of crank rotation. A older mechanic said its because we run normal multigrade 20W50 oil and not full synthetic. Now the 2 questions are:
1: Would full synthetic automobile oil work. (From good manufacturer)
and
2: Heard alot of mixed feelings about just changing to full synthetic. Things about oil not mixing and seizing the engine. Others say I must use a flushing agent to first flush the motor. Then others say I will hurt my gearbox and clutch plates with the flush.
So WHO the F#CK is right? I dont wana seize my crank too! Luckily his crank was just polished and measured up a-okay.He needs new bearings now.
Any and all advice would be cool!
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i just run honda gn4 oil from the dealer....always have ran it and always will i dont think there is a need to change from that...
btw mechanics usually arent really all too great with bikes with my experience, i only use them to change out my tires because i dont have my own tire changer (soon will) i asked for advice before and they told me i had to spend like 500 dollars to fix my bike, i bought a new cct and problem solved (they said that wouldnt be enough to fix it)
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In an F4i I run 3qt's Motull 5100 20w50 and 1qt of Lucas
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High quality auto oil may work, but most car oils have additives that are really bad for bikes. If it says "Energy Conserving" anywhere at all on the bottle (usually on the circular API Service seal on the back), it is NOT for motorcycles. The common favorite I see online is Shell Rotella T6, I've run it myself in my bike for the last 6 or 7k miles with no problems, but I probably wouldn't notice anyway :P If you read the fine print on the T6 it even says that it meets the JASO MA standard, which is the rating used for motorcycles.
The biggest problem I've ever heard of about switching to full synthetic is that you can get oil leaks. The synthetic oil is so much finer that it will leak out of old seals and gaskets that seemed fine before. IMO, that just means that stuff would have probably gone bad soon anyway and should be replaced.
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I run Honda 10w-40, ive always ran oem oil. i tried switchong to a synthetic once and my clutch kept slipping and my bike would kill at stop signs and shit.
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Thanx all...
So a automobile full synthetic oil not recommended? Rather just motorcycle approved oil? Can I just replace the current oil with the synthetic? No need to flush out the oil first?
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4qts honda 10-40 and .5 qt of lucas here.. I'm surprised to see everyone running 20-50 instead of 10-40. Is the heavy weight oil for summertime only or yall runnin it year round?
Originally Posted by Blackness