03-29-2011, 08:07 AM
Got a little bored this weekend and wanted to document some work so heres a guide on how to do the 2nd idle mod on an 01 F4i. It will give you a smoother idle and much quicker and easier to adjust. Half a turn on this new idle will bump the rpms up much quicker then the stock. The new idle cracks the throttle plates open as opposed to the stock idle which just makes the bike richer or leaner.
Step 1: Remove 2 hex/allen screws from left and right side of driver seat.
Step 2(not pictured): Remove 2 allen screws from the bottom of the tank under the driver seat.
Step 3: Remove 2 allen screws from front of tank
Step 4: Prop tank up being careful not to pinch any hoses. Run a bungee from top of tank to back of the bike to keep the tank up from falling
Step 5: Remove airbox cover(not pictured). The 10 screws from the airbox are circled in green.
Step 6: Remove airbox by unscrewing 6 phillips head screws.
Step 7: Look between throttle bodies 2 and 3 for a small stopper screw
Step 8: Remove said stopper screw
Step 9: Replace stopper screw with new idle cable. I used a 98 900rr idle cable or screw set which was just barely long enough to feed through to the left side of the frame. Make sure you put on the washer and spring or else it might vibrate loose(I went back and did this later)
Step 10: Feed new idle cable somewhere convenient. Ive found top left side to be easiest place. In the back is the stock idle/wax unit cable.
Step 11: Put your airbox/tank/seat back on in reverse order. Turn your bike on and let it run for 10 min. Once the bike is warm, set the stock idle to 1300-1400rpms then never touch it again. Adjust the idle from the new idle cable. You will have a better running idle and wont have to turn it forever to turn the idle up. Half a turn will bump it up alot.
Step 12: Hit the lots and get out there and practice.
Optional but recommended.
While your at it might as well clean/change your air filter.
Also might as well do the clean air mod. Its pretty quick and easy and will prevent your bike from locking.
Here is how you do it:
I never blocked off the airbox holes. I havnt noticed any differences with it blocked or open so its not a big issue. I believe the T is a 3/8inch or 1/2inch but dont quote me on that.
And here is what the finished product looks like:
Last note: Be careful not to drop any of your screws. I dropped one and it happened to get stuck where the stock idle adjuster was and I was unable to turn the stock idle adjuster
. I had to take the throttle bodies off to get it loose so the stock idle would turn. Huge pain in the ass but I learned a bit more about my bike.
Hope this helps some of the new squids like me.
Step 1: Remove 2 hex/allen screws from left and right side of driver seat.
Step 2(not pictured): Remove 2 allen screws from the bottom of the tank under the driver seat.
Step 3: Remove 2 allen screws from front of tank
Step 4: Prop tank up being careful not to pinch any hoses. Run a bungee from top of tank to back of the bike to keep the tank up from falling
Step 5: Remove airbox cover(not pictured). The 10 screws from the airbox are circled in green.
Step 6: Remove airbox by unscrewing 6 phillips head screws.
Step 7: Look between throttle bodies 2 and 3 for a small stopper screw
Step 8: Remove said stopper screw
Step 9: Replace stopper screw with new idle cable. I used a 98 900rr idle cable or screw set which was just barely long enough to feed through to the left side of the frame. Make sure you put on the washer and spring or else it might vibrate loose(I went back and did this later)
Step 10: Feed new idle cable somewhere convenient. Ive found top left side to be easiest place. In the back is the stock idle/wax unit cable.
Step 11: Put your airbox/tank/seat back on in reverse order. Turn your bike on and let it run for 10 min. Once the bike is warm, set the stock idle to 1300-1400rpms then never touch it again. Adjust the idle from the new idle cable. You will have a better running idle and wont have to turn it forever to turn the idle up. Half a turn will bump it up alot.
Step 12: Hit the lots and get out there and practice.
Optional but recommended.
While your at it might as well clean/change your air filter.
Also might as well do the clean air mod. Its pretty quick and easy and will prevent your bike from locking.
Here is how you do it:
I never blocked off the airbox holes. I havnt noticed any differences with it blocked or open so its not a big issue. I believe the T is a 3/8inch or 1/2inch but dont quote me on that.
And here is what the finished product looks like:
Last note: Be careful not to drop any of your screws. I dropped one and it happened to get stuck where the stock idle adjuster was and I was unable to turn the stock idle adjuster
. I had to take the throttle bodies off to get it loose so the stock idle would turn. Huge pain in the ass but I learned a bit more about my bike.Hope this helps some of the new squids like me.