01-23-2011, 11:47 PM
Trying to help all the new 03-04 636 stunt owners by making one thread for the 03-04 bike.
Forks:
03-04 forks have a high record of breaking. Its cause they have a thinner wall on the chrome part of the fork. Take a thin piece of steel and bend it back and forth a few times and see how quickly it cracks then add up the amount of times you have grabbed the front brake to do a stoppie..
Fork Swap:
05-08 forks easly swap with the 03-04. All ya need is the rotors, and fender of the year your wanting to swap out with.
05-06, 07-08.
Gas tank reinforcement:
Tired of your gas tank wobbling everytime you sit on it. onewheelneal posted a nice fix.
And here's a pic of inolens that you can sorta see
Is for the 03/04 636's. Mine looks more like inolens. The rear tank mounts on the Kawi's bend easily so this gives the tank a little extra support so they wont bend as easy. It also makes your tank more firm for when doing tank tricks - you wont feel your tank wobbling side to side at all. It's attached to the cross bar on the subframe with two zip ties and you have to drill one hole for your gas overflow tube to go through. You can see all of that easily in the first picture. Any questions - well there shouldn't be any coz it's pretty damn easy. I don't know what/if any other years it would work on. I know the 05+ Kawi tanks are a different monster so not sure if it would work on those or if you could make one work somehow of if its even needed
But for the 03/04 all you need is a kitchen cutting board and a dremel or saw to cut. You could also use a piece of wood the same thickness I'd assume but I only know a few people who have this and all of them have used a kitchen cutting board which you can get from Walmart for $8 lol.
Ive also taken some big rubber pads and glued them to the bottom of the tank above were they are able to sit on the top of the air box.
Frame:
If you've been on stuntride you probably have seen how weak our frames are. From getting them welded to replacement. We'll start with replacment.
SMD Frame:
We've been working on a new frame design that fits in the "freestyle budget".
These new frames use the rear section of the stock frame.
The kit comes with an aluminum insert that welds in to the stock frame (which must be cut in half). The SMD steal tubular frame then bolts into the modified stock frame.
Cost: $1000
Contact Twite for more information
Static Moto:
Frames
They start at 2000. http://www.staticmoto.com/ for more details
Frame Welding/reinforceing:
A few say do not weld on it until it needs welding. then once cracked brace the hell out of it. Krazykyle85 welds all his frames before he starts riding them.
The key to aluminum is heat treat. Without heat treat whatever you weld will be soft and will not last as long as it should. If you over bake aluminum it will go soft. and then youd have to do alot of ish salvage it, pain in the arse. If you are welding. have it done by someone experienced. When heat treating also have someone that knows what there doing.
Krazykyle85:
Attached Thumbnails
navajowalks:
Not the same year.... but this is what I did on my 07
JohnnyP:
But on my year specificly I think the weak point is the motor mount ears...
Heres a 05/06 frame I did, the funny thing is I thought this frame was good, untill I blasted it to powder coat it...Once it was blasted you could just barely see 4 stress cracks starting on the welds They were very small and hard to see with the paint on the frame...2 on each side.. Most peoples frames are already starting to crack like this, they just dont know it. Untill they start to spread....
I tied both engine mounts into the head stock, and squared it all off...Its is 10x more rigid then before squaring it all off...There are 5 pieces of plate on each side welded together
Oil pickup:
Haven't seen one made and haven't ever heard of needing one. omr suggests placing your bike on level ground and fill it until the oil almost fills up the whole glass window.
Tos mod: Just drill alittle hole in the side of the tip sensor and fill it with glue/silicone. let it dry, the little donut inside wont move ever again. You could probably fill it with boogers too.
Pull the rod and weight out.
Be warned if you mod or remove it,it will keep running till you cut power with key/kill switch.
Key Reloaction:
Why would I want to do this? Good question. For most squids/newbies you don't. Reason the big boys do it is. When jumping through the bars there is a high possiblity of there foot hitting the key and haveing the bike shut off mid wheelie.
Make a bracket that holds the ignition in.
Kill switch Mod:
easy. Drill a small hole into the switch. Then when ya go make wheelies stick a saftey pin in it. Do make sure your friends know where you relocated the key.
Kleen air mod:
The purpose of this mod is to simply bypass the air box so no oil can get in there and as a bonus you will also gain some performance from this mod because it not only stops hot oily air from getting in your air box but it also creates a vacuum in the crankcase and that makes the bikes low end better ..
It makes a vacuum because there are one way reed valves under the ports that the two short hoses are connected to and they are ported to the exhaust.. Easy way to see if you have done the mod correctly is to pull your oil filler cap off and cover it with your hand , you should feel suction on your hand when you rev the bike ..
before
after
OMR likes to just stick a long screw in the vacuum line that comes off the pair valve because those little caps like to get brittle and fall off but the stock vacuum line seems to stay pliable ..
Also you dont need to replace the pair valve with a t fitting because once you unplug the vaccum line from the valve it remains open and acts just like the t fitting ..
03 04 is vacuum operated but im pretty sure the 05 06 is electric so just unplug the pair valve and that will disable it just like taking the vacuum line off the 03 04 pair valve
Make sure you plug the opening in the airbox where the hoses that you removed were attached to. You can use bolts or whatever else you have laying around. Just put some silcone around it so it makes a tight seal.
Radiator support:
Cheap way is to use zip ties. If you use zip ties use industral zip ties.
Or you can use Dcp rad supports
http://www.damagecontrolparts.com/ for more info
Forks:
03-04 forks have a high record of breaking. Its cause they have a thinner wall on the chrome part of the fork. Take a thin piece of steel and bend it back and forth a few times and see how quickly it cracks then add up the amount of times you have grabbed the front brake to do a stoppie..
Fork Swap:
05-08 forks easly swap with the 03-04. All ya need is the rotors, and fender of the year your wanting to swap out with.
05-06, 07-08.
Gas tank reinforcement:
Tired of your gas tank wobbling everytime you sit on it. onewheelneal posted a nice fix.
And here's a pic of inolens that you can sorta see
Is for the 03/04 636's. Mine looks more like inolens. The rear tank mounts on the Kawi's bend easily so this gives the tank a little extra support so they wont bend as easy. It also makes your tank more firm for when doing tank tricks - you wont feel your tank wobbling side to side at all. It's attached to the cross bar on the subframe with two zip ties and you have to drill one hole for your gas overflow tube to go through. You can see all of that easily in the first picture. Any questions - well there shouldn't be any coz it's pretty damn easy. I don't know what/if any other years it would work on. I know the 05+ Kawi tanks are a different monster so not sure if it would work on those or if you could make one work somehow of if its even needed
But for the 03/04 all you need is a kitchen cutting board and a dremel or saw to cut. You could also use a piece of wood the same thickness I'd assume but I only know a few people who have this and all of them have used a kitchen cutting board which you can get from Walmart for $8 lol. Ive also taken some big rubber pads and glued them to the bottom of the tank above were they are able to sit on the top of the air box.
Frame:
If you've been on stuntride you probably have seen how weak our frames are. From getting them welded to replacement. We'll start with replacment.
SMD Frame:
We've been working on a new frame design that fits in the "freestyle budget".
These new frames use the rear section of the stock frame.
The kit comes with an aluminum insert that welds in to the stock frame (which must be cut in half). The SMD steal tubular frame then bolts into the modified stock frame.
Cost: $1000
Contact Twite for more information
Static Moto:
Frames
They start at 2000. http://www.staticmoto.com/ for more details
Frame Welding/reinforceing:
A few say do not weld on it until it needs welding. then once cracked brace the hell out of it. Krazykyle85 welds all his frames before he starts riding them.
The key to aluminum is heat treat. Without heat treat whatever you weld will be soft and will not last as long as it should. If you over bake aluminum it will go soft. and then youd have to do alot of ish salvage it, pain in the arse. If you are welding. have it done by someone experienced. When heat treating also have someone that knows what there doing.
Krazykyle85:
Attached Thumbnails
navajowalks:
Not the same year.... but this is what I did on my 07
JohnnyP:
But on my year specificly I think the weak point is the motor mount ears...
Heres a 05/06 frame I did, the funny thing is I thought this frame was good, untill I blasted it to powder coat it...Once it was blasted you could just barely see 4 stress cracks starting on the welds They were very small and hard to see with the paint on the frame...2 on each side.. Most peoples frames are already starting to crack like this, they just dont know it. Untill they start to spread....
I tied both engine mounts into the head stock, and squared it all off...Its is 10x more rigid then before squaring it all off...There are 5 pieces of plate on each side welded together
Oil pickup:
Haven't seen one made and haven't ever heard of needing one. omr suggests placing your bike on level ground and fill it until the oil almost fills up the whole glass window.
Tos mod: Just drill alittle hole in the side of the tip sensor and fill it with glue/silicone. let it dry, the little donut inside wont move ever again. You could probably fill it with boogers too.
Pull the rod and weight out.
Be warned if you mod or remove it,it will keep running till you cut power with key/kill switch.
Key Reloaction:
Why would I want to do this? Good question. For most squids/newbies you don't. Reason the big boys do it is. When jumping through the bars there is a high possiblity of there foot hitting the key and haveing the bike shut off mid wheelie.
Make a bracket that holds the ignition in.
Kill switch Mod:
easy. Drill a small hole into the switch. Then when ya go make wheelies stick a saftey pin in it. Do make sure your friends know where you relocated the key.
Kleen air mod:
The purpose of this mod is to simply bypass the air box so no oil can get in there and as a bonus you will also gain some performance from this mod because it not only stops hot oily air from getting in your air box but it also creates a vacuum in the crankcase and that makes the bikes low end better ..
It makes a vacuum because there are one way reed valves under the ports that the two short hoses are connected to and they are ported to the exhaust.. Easy way to see if you have done the mod correctly is to pull your oil filler cap off and cover it with your hand , you should feel suction on your hand when you rev the bike ..
before
after
OMR likes to just stick a long screw in the vacuum line that comes off the pair valve because those little caps like to get brittle and fall off but the stock vacuum line seems to stay pliable ..
Also you dont need to replace the pair valve with a t fitting because once you unplug the vaccum line from the valve it remains open and acts just like the t fitting ..
03 04 is vacuum operated but im pretty sure the 05 06 is electric so just unplug the pair valve and that will disable it just like taking the vacuum line off the 03 04 pair valve
Make sure you plug the opening in the airbox where the hoses that you removed were attached to. You can use bolts or whatever else you have laying around. Just put some silcone around it so it makes a tight seal.
Radiator support:
Cheap way is to use zip ties. If you use zip ties use industral zip ties.
Or you can use Dcp rad supports
http://www.damagecontrolparts.com/ for more info