06-04-2009, 02:57 AM
SOMETHING ABOUT BRAKE FLUID :
The function of brake fluid is to provide an incompressible medium to transmit the driver�s foot pressure on the brake pedal through the master cylinder(s) to the calipers in order to clamp the friction material against the discs. The foot pressure is multiplied by the mechanical pedal ratio and the hydraulic ratio of the master cylinders, booster (if used) and caliper piston(s).
This is a simple concept. When fresh, all brake fluids are virtually incompressible and the system works as well as its mechanical and hydraulic design allows. There are, however significant problems. Overheated brake fluid can (and will) boil in the caliper. Boiling produces gas bubbles within any boiling fluid. Gas is compressible so boiling brake fluid leads to a �soft� brake pedal with long travel. In extreme cases overheated brake fluid necessitates �pumping the brake pedal� in order to get a pedal at all.
You must change stock brake fluid,and buy some brake fluid with high boiling point!
Brembo Racing - LCF 600+ Brake Fluid :
Brembo LCF 600+ has been specifically formulated to provide the highest performance under all racing conditions. It has an independently proven low compressibility at high temperatures.This fluid is used by the world�s best including Moto GP teams Ducati and Honda and Formula 1 team Ferrari amongst many other world and national teams.
Compared to other leading brake fluids (AP600 and CastrolSRF) the Brembo Fluid is designed to give more than:
Pressure bleeding do's and don'ts :
Pressure bleeding on its own is not necessarily a bad thing, but there are several steps one must take to ensure that the bleed event will result in an air-free brake system.
When we talk about pressure bleeding, we are referring to the process in which we pour our brake fluid into a pressure vessel, hook up a pressure source, and run the now pressurized fluid directly into the master cylinder reservoir. One by one the caliper bleeder screws are opened to allow the pressurized fluid to flow through the system until all of the old fluid has been purged. Simple, right?
Well yes, but beware of imitations � not all pressure bleeders are created equal. The professional units (the type you can consider using) separate the pressurized brake fluid from the pressure source (air) using a flexible rubber diaphragm. In this fashion, the pressurized air is kept from forcing its way into the fluid. As we all know, air and fluid should be kept as far apart as possible.
This brings us to the imitations. There seem to be a rash of products available lately that claim to be pressure brake bleeders at a fraction of the cost of the professional units. Like most things that sound too good to be true, well, it�s exactly that.
Like the professional units, these imitations contain a pressure vessel into which new brake fluid is poured. However, in order to pressurize the fluid, an integral pump handle is cycled to build the pressure inside the vessel without any measures taken to separate the pressurized air from the fluid. For those of you who have ever bought a $19.95 do-it-yourself potted plant and bug sprayer from Home Depot you get the idea.
Of course, having pressurized air in contact with the brake fluid will certainly force the fluid through the system just as effectively as the high-zoot professional unit, but as an added bonus we are stuffing air into the brake fluid at the same time. Talk about an unwanted surprise!
While it may not be visible to the naked eye (air can actually entrain itself in the fluid as to be visually undetectable) it�s there right along with all of the nasty moisture trapped inside of it. This of course begs the question: if you are stuffing air and water contaminated fluid into your brake system, why even bother bleeding it in the first place?
Naturally there will be those who argue that the amount of air in question is not important enough to worry about, but think about this for a moment: nearly every automotive manufacturer stores their bulk brake fluid in large containers which are subjected to a constant VACUUM. Talk about an expensive process! If just storing your fluid under regular atmospheric conditions isn�t good enough to keep air and water out, just imagine what shoving 30psi worth of compressed air on top of it is doing.
Brake fluids (boiling points) :
Fluid name , Dry point (first number) , Wet boiling point (second number) :
AP SUPER 600 : Dry boiling point (590 F) - Wet (410 F)
CASTROL SRF : 590 F - 518 F
NEO SUPER DOT 610 : 610 F - 421 F
MOTUL RACING 600 : 593 F - 420 F
MOTUL DOT 5.1 : 509 F - 365 F
ATE SUPER BLUE : 536 F - 392 F
VALVOLINE : 503 F - 343 F
SYNPOWER : 503 F - 329 F
ATE SL : 500 F - 311 F
CASTROL LMA : 450 F - 288 F
AP 551 : 528 F - 374 F
The function of brake fluid is to provide an incompressible medium to transmit the driver�s foot pressure on the brake pedal through the master cylinder(s) to the calipers in order to clamp the friction material against the discs. The foot pressure is multiplied by the mechanical pedal ratio and the hydraulic ratio of the master cylinders, booster (if used) and caliper piston(s).
This is a simple concept. When fresh, all brake fluids are virtually incompressible and the system works as well as its mechanical and hydraulic design allows. There are, however significant problems. Overheated brake fluid can (and will) boil in the caliper. Boiling produces gas bubbles within any boiling fluid. Gas is compressible so boiling brake fluid leads to a �soft� brake pedal with long travel. In extreme cases overheated brake fluid necessitates �pumping the brake pedal� in order to get a pedal at all.
You must change stock brake fluid,and buy some brake fluid with high boiling point!
Brembo Racing - LCF 600+ Brake Fluid :
Brembo LCF 600+ has been specifically formulated to provide the highest performance under all racing conditions. It has an independently proven low compressibility at high temperatures.This fluid is used by the world�s best including Moto GP teams Ducati and Honda and Formula 1 team Ferrari amongst many other world and national teams.
Compared to other leading brake fluids (AP600 and CastrolSRF) the Brembo Fluid is designed to give more than:
- 10% reduction in compressibility at 180�C.
- Highest dry boiling point at 316�C (601�F).
- Wet boiling point at 204�C (399�F).
- Brembo LCF600+ is compatible with other high performance DOT 3 and DOT 4 racing brake fluids.
- 500ml bottle.
Pressure bleeding do's and don'ts :
Pressure bleeding on its own is not necessarily a bad thing, but there are several steps one must take to ensure that the bleed event will result in an air-free brake system.
When we talk about pressure bleeding, we are referring to the process in which we pour our brake fluid into a pressure vessel, hook up a pressure source, and run the now pressurized fluid directly into the master cylinder reservoir. One by one the caliper bleeder screws are opened to allow the pressurized fluid to flow through the system until all of the old fluid has been purged. Simple, right?
Well yes, but beware of imitations � not all pressure bleeders are created equal. The professional units (the type you can consider using) separate the pressurized brake fluid from the pressure source (air) using a flexible rubber diaphragm. In this fashion, the pressurized air is kept from forcing its way into the fluid. As we all know, air and fluid should be kept as far apart as possible.
This brings us to the imitations. There seem to be a rash of products available lately that claim to be pressure brake bleeders at a fraction of the cost of the professional units. Like most things that sound too good to be true, well, it�s exactly that.
Like the professional units, these imitations contain a pressure vessel into which new brake fluid is poured. However, in order to pressurize the fluid, an integral pump handle is cycled to build the pressure inside the vessel without any measures taken to separate the pressurized air from the fluid. For those of you who have ever bought a $19.95 do-it-yourself potted plant and bug sprayer from Home Depot you get the idea.
Of course, having pressurized air in contact with the brake fluid will certainly force the fluid through the system just as effectively as the high-zoot professional unit, but as an added bonus we are stuffing air into the brake fluid at the same time. Talk about an unwanted surprise!
While it may not be visible to the naked eye (air can actually entrain itself in the fluid as to be visually undetectable) it�s there right along with all of the nasty moisture trapped inside of it. This of course begs the question: if you are stuffing air and water contaminated fluid into your brake system, why even bother bleeding it in the first place?
Naturally there will be those who argue that the amount of air in question is not important enough to worry about, but think about this for a moment: nearly every automotive manufacturer stores their bulk brake fluid in large containers which are subjected to a constant VACUUM. Talk about an expensive process! If just storing your fluid under regular atmospheric conditions isn�t good enough to keep air and water out, just imagine what shoving 30psi worth of compressed air on top of it is doing.
Brake fluids (boiling points) :
Fluid name , Dry point (first number) , Wet boiling point (second number) :
AP SUPER 600 : Dry boiling point (590 F) - Wet (410 F)
CASTROL SRF : 590 F - 518 F
NEO SUPER DOT 610 : 610 F - 421 F
MOTUL RACING 600 : 593 F - 420 F
MOTUL DOT 5.1 : 509 F - 365 F
ATE SUPER BLUE : 536 F - 392 F
VALVOLINE : 503 F - 343 F
SYNPOWER : 503 F - 329 F
ATE SL : 500 F - 311 F
CASTROL LMA : 450 F - 288 F
AP 551 : 528 F - 374 F