05-17-2012, 03:09 AM
So I finally got my sync to work and figured id help a few people out on how to do it. So heres a few reasons to do this:
1. Makes your bike run 100000 times better.
2. Idle is consistent and doesnt fluctuate
3. Idle pull is much stronger. While you are syncing you can actually hear the idle turn up as it adjusts better and better.
4. Keeps your plugs from fouling up quicker. Since the bikes running better it keeps fuel/air mixture better.
5. Did I mention it makes your bike pull like a fucking horse on steroids.
6. You want a new feeling awesome muthafucking bike?! Then JUST DO IT!!
So how to do it. Note: Instructions are similar on other bikes
1. First off start by checking your vacuum tubes to make sure everything is good. If you see cracked ones then replace them or you will have problems! Here is the F4i routing on a cali bike with EVAP(emissions removed). Its the same on a non cali just ignore the cali stuff. Here is what the routing should look like:
2. Start your bike and let it warm up. About 10min.
3. If you have a non liquid sync tool(Such as a Morgan Carbtune) skip to step 4. For the Motion Pro Sync tool, the tubes must all be calibrated to TB1 before attempting to sync. To do this take your 5 prong splitter supplied by motion pro and hook up all the tubes to it. Then take the last prong and hook it up to the #1 hose. This hose is the one that connects to the bottom of the airbox.
All the hoses connected to TB 1 hose.
3. Start your bike and look at the tool. The levels will probably be off in the tool. So take your flat head and turn the pistons in or out adjusting them until they are all at and even level. Once you have done that you are ready to sync each TB.
4. Disconnect all the tubes from the prong. Now connect each hose on your tool to the correct TB or hose on the bike.
#1 is the hose that plugs into the bottom of the airbox.
#2 is the hose that connects with the 3 way prong going to the TB.
#3 is the other hose that connects with the 3 way prong going to the TB.
#4 is the other hose that plugs into the bottom of the airbox.
All hoses hooked up to proper TB. You can either hook it directly to TB(like i did) or use a plastic connector plug to hook up tool hoses to TB hoses.
5. Start your bike up. The levels in the tool will probably be off. Increase your idle somewhere inbetween the middle of Stock idle, and where you would run your stunt idle. This helps because it will give you the most pull in the times where you might be riding your brake too much or trying different clutch tricks. Increase your idle slowly with your 2nd idle cable making sure you dont suck any fluid in.
Note: If you try and start the bike and it sucks up fluid, then check the restrictors in the tool hoses. They should be at the end of the hoses where they connect to TB. Also you may need to clean out the pistons and orings in the tool:
http://www.motionpro.com/documents/p...%28rev6%29.pdf
Also, the more fluid you have in the tool the harder it will be to pull the fluid out. So less fluid means the levels will raise higher, more fluid they will stay lower. Be careful to not put so much to where the pistons touch the fluid.
Unsynced:
6. Once you have your idle set to where you want to sync, then start adjusting the TB's individually. Only TB 2,3 and 4 are adjustable. 1 is your base that you adjust the other levels to. You will need a 7mm metric wrench to do so. The adjuster are pictured below. Turn them in and out to raise or lower the fluid to level everything out. The adjusters are circled in red:
Nice and even now. Sounds much better.
I wish I got a video of my bike pre and post sync. My idle used to fluctuate 200-300rpm and was super annoying. Plus the bike felt boggy and slow. Post sync idle is now super consistent and barely moves. Not to mention that the power this thing has gained is ridiculous. Feels like a new bike. Absolutely love it, wish I did it earlier. If you havnt done so yet, DO THIS!!!
This isnt my bike but you can still hear a big difference in the way the bike runs:
1. Makes your bike run 100000 times better.
2. Idle is consistent and doesnt fluctuate
3. Idle pull is much stronger. While you are syncing you can actually hear the idle turn up as it adjusts better and better.
4. Keeps your plugs from fouling up quicker. Since the bikes running better it keeps fuel/air mixture better.
5. Did I mention it makes your bike pull like a fucking horse on steroids.
6. You want a new feeling awesome muthafucking bike?! Then JUST DO IT!!
So how to do it. Note: Instructions are similar on other bikes
1. First off start by checking your vacuum tubes to make sure everything is good. If you see cracked ones then replace them or you will have problems! Here is the F4i routing on a cali bike with EVAP(emissions removed). Its the same on a non cali just ignore the cali stuff. Here is what the routing should look like:
2. Start your bike and let it warm up. About 10min.
3. If you have a non liquid sync tool(Such as a Morgan Carbtune) skip to step 4. For the Motion Pro Sync tool, the tubes must all be calibrated to TB1 before attempting to sync. To do this take your 5 prong splitter supplied by motion pro and hook up all the tubes to it. Then take the last prong and hook it up to the #1 hose. This hose is the one that connects to the bottom of the airbox.
All the hoses connected to TB 1 hose.
3. Start your bike and look at the tool. The levels will probably be off in the tool. So take your flat head and turn the pistons in or out adjusting them until they are all at and even level. Once you have done that you are ready to sync each TB.
4. Disconnect all the tubes from the prong. Now connect each hose on your tool to the correct TB or hose on the bike.
#1 is the hose that plugs into the bottom of the airbox.
#2 is the hose that connects with the 3 way prong going to the TB.
#3 is the other hose that connects with the 3 way prong going to the TB.
#4 is the other hose that plugs into the bottom of the airbox.
All hoses hooked up to proper TB. You can either hook it directly to TB(like i did) or use a plastic connector plug to hook up tool hoses to TB hoses.
5. Start your bike up. The levels in the tool will probably be off. Increase your idle somewhere inbetween the middle of Stock idle, and where you would run your stunt idle. This helps because it will give you the most pull in the times where you might be riding your brake too much or trying different clutch tricks. Increase your idle slowly with your 2nd idle cable making sure you dont suck any fluid in.
Note: If you try and start the bike and it sucks up fluid, then check the restrictors in the tool hoses. They should be at the end of the hoses where they connect to TB. Also you may need to clean out the pistons and orings in the tool:
http://www.motionpro.com/documents/p...%28rev6%29.pdf
Also, the more fluid you have in the tool the harder it will be to pull the fluid out. So less fluid means the levels will raise higher, more fluid they will stay lower. Be careful to not put so much to where the pistons touch the fluid.
Unsynced:
6. Once you have your idle set to where you want to sync, then start adjusting the TB's individually. Only TB 2,3 and 4 are adjustable. 1 is your base that you adjust the other levels to. You will need a 7mm metric wrench to do so. The adjuster are pictured below. Turn them in and out to raise or lower the fluid to level everything out. The adjusters are circled in red:
Nice and even now. Sounds much better.
I wish I got a video of my bike pre and post sync. My idle used to fluctuate 200-300rpm and was super annoying. Plus the bike felt boggy and slow. Post sync idle is now super consistent and barely moves. Not to mention that the power this thing has gained is ridiculous. Feels like a new bike. Absolutely love it, wish I did it earlier. If you havnt done so yet, DO THIS!!!
This isnt my bike but you can still hear a big difference in the way the bike runs: