Whats a typical price for powder coating a frame?

[Paul]

Originally Posted by bulletchicken

Here is the process.

1. remove parts from bike, remove any nuts/bolts/bearings and any moving parts.
2. degrease everything really well
3. sandblast parts, to get everything down to bare metal
4. use acetone or denatured alcohol to prep metal
5. use silicon plugs to plug off any holes, threads or bearing races
6. bake metal to temp to outgas metal and get oils off metal from hands or prepwork
7. use hi temp tape to cover anything you dont want coated -powdercoat items
8. bake powder to scheduled temp/time
9. apply clear and bake again orelse its done if no clear is needed.

You can get powdercoating supplies just about anywhere.
example: harbor freight...
The place you take it to get coated will probably have the silicon plugs and hi temp tape.
Have them cover your vin with hi temp tape before they coat it as well.

Hope that helps....

this is from another thread so i think bare metal is a must

[YSRRider]

Anything less than $200 and you have to be skeptical of what you are getting. Many coaters, especially the ones working out of their garage with their dead grandmas oven, are not sand blasting. sand blasting is critical if you want the coating to last more than a couple months. You get what you pay for. Does that price include masking? Some frames can take you an easy 30 minutes just to mask them off. I have large plugs for some threaded holes which saves time, but they are tapered and close the gap for me to spray powder in so that will leave ugly thin spots in the recessed holes in the side of your frame. Who wants that? MY COST for enough powder to do a frame and swing arm in any 2 stage color is roughly $100.00-120. chrome base and candy colors are roughly $20/lb, my in-stock blacks which I feel are better quality cost me $3.00-$5.00/lb since I buy large boxes. Any powder bought by the pound is gonna cost you $8.00-$15 on average for a solid tone. There are tons of price sheets online that you can look up to get a rough idea on what it should cost, some are confusing because they dont have blasting included, thats sometimes listed separate. an F4i frame takes about 15 minutes to blast, many shops are gonna charge you $40-$50 just to blast a frame. A 636 frame has slighly tougher paint so it takes alittle longer, The last one I did took me a little over 30 minutes but I used really fine media so that the end product was as smooth as I could get it. The process is time consuming to have it done right. Its not as easy as squirting powder and baking.

P.S. GLASS BEADS IS 100% THE WRONG MEDIA TO USE FOR PREP IN POWDERCOATING!!!!!!! Any shop that is using glass beads, tell him to go fuck a bee hive!

[HPPowdercoating]

$100 is cheap , if that includes stripping/blasting ,Prep and Coating..

I charge $200 to strip/Blast,Prep and coat in a single Solid color.. White,Black,Red ect.. $300 in a Metallic or candy color..

Yes Gold will be More then white or Black, Because its considered a Two color Because it Requires a Clear Topcoat...

" The bitterness of poor quality remains long after low pricing is forgotten!

[SBS Pez]

If not glass beads then what? Im just about to make my own blast cabinet so would like to get the right stuff from the off. (my powder coater does not do any blasting) Is it hard to set up your own powder coating booth?
Thanks

[StuntBikeJake]

http://stuntride.com/vbstunt/showthr...ght=powdercoat

[YSRRider]

Originally Posted by bulletchicken
Here is the process.

1. remove parts from bike, remove any nuts/bolts/bearings and any moving parts.
2. degrease everything really well
3. sandblast parts, to get everything down to bare metal
4. use acetone or denatured alcohol to prep metal WRONG! I was really hoping someone would have mentioned mineral spirits, that would most definately earn a kick in the dick. Professional coaters buy professional chemicals designed for coatings. Not a $10 can of sauce from Menards.
5. use silicon plugs to plug off any holes, threads or bearing races
6. bake metal to temp to outgas metal and get oils off metal from hands or prepwork only cast metals need to be outgassed and an ordinary curing oven wont get parts hot enough to burn off oil, finger oils shouldnt be present to begin with. (poor material handling)
7. use hi temp tape to cover anything you dont want coated -powdercoat items
8. bake powder to scheduled temp/time
9. apply clear and bake again orelse its done if no clear is needed.

You can get powdercoating supplies just about anywhere.
example: harbor freight... <------- Gaaaaaaaaarbage
The place you take it to get coated will probably have the silicon plugs and hi temp tape.
Have them cover your vin with hi temp tape before they coat it as well. lol.... amateurs.... a nice making tape skid mark over the vin is always attractive!

Hope that helps....
-------------------------------------------------
I'm not trying rag on anyone, too many people have been misinformed on this process thanks to companies like Eastwood, Columbia coatings, powder by the pound.... they dont care if its done right, all they care about is selling to the consumer that doesnt know any better. They draw people in with the "do it yourself and save money" bullshit. They also dont tell you critical information like the importance of proper media blasting and what it costs to get setup to media blast in a timely fashion. I leaned the hard way. I blasted 2 frames with a small harbor freight blast pot, took each one 6 hours to blast with a 40lb pot and 12.6 CFM air compressor that cost me $950. The blast room I use now would cost someone $100,000 easy and that same frame I could fully blast in about 15 minutes. The frames were machine frames and just needed the pickling/mill scale blasted off, thank god there was nothing more! I would have shot myself if it took any longer. Most of that time was not blast time but was refilling the 40lb pot. Took longer to empty it out. PROPER chemical treatment is also important along with blasting to meet ASTM B117-09 testing.

[YSRRider]

Originally Posted by HPPowdercoating

$100 is cheap , if that includes stripping/blasting ,Prep and Coating..

I charge $200 to strip/Blast,Prep and coat in a single Solid color.. White,Black,Red ect.. $300 in a Metallic or candy color..

Yes Gold will be More then white or Black, Because its considered a Two color Because it Requires a Clear Topcoat...

" The bitterness of poor quality remains long after low pricing is forgotten!

not all gold powders require a clear, a non epoxy gold is difficult to find.

Originally Posted by SBS Pez

If not glass beads then what? Im just about to make my own blast cabinet so would like to get the right stuff from the off. (my powder coater does not do any blasting) Is it hard to set up your own powder coating booth?
Thanks

Dont waste your time unless you have $$$$ to dump into it. Aluminum oxide is the best media to use to keep a soft blasting profile which is critical for powder coating, especially on aluminum. A budget gun to blast aluminum oxide will burn through a ceramic tip in about 20 minutes. They make carbide ones, they last longer but the inside of the gun still wears, you'd have to spend around $250+ for a Trinco gun that is operated with a foot pedal, its a heavy brass gun with a thick carbide nozzle. Empire also makes them they are even more expensive from them. You can use fine mesh black sand/slag at lower pressure, still gonna eat up tips but not as fast as aluminum oxide. Slag doesnt break down as fast as aluminum oxide, the grains of sand get rounded as its reused. Aluminum oxide breaks down to finer grit but always has a fresh cutting edge. These medias are also heavier than glass so they dont work as well in a typical siphon feed cabinet which is probably the #1 reason that people use glass beads in them. You get a continuous flow a media instead of a pulsing action like you see with the heavier medias. Any media finer will just get sucked up by your dust collector.

[SBS Pez]

^^thanks. Im in the Uk and will look into it.

[bulletchicken]

Originally Posted by YSRRider

Originally Posted by bulletchicken
Here is the process.

1. remove parts from bike, remove any nuts/bolts/bearings and any moving parts.
2. degrease everything really well
3. sandblast parts, to get everything down to bare metal
4. use acetone or denatured alcohol to prep metal WRONG! I was really hoping someone would have mentioned mineral spirits, that would most definately earn a kick in the dick. Professional coaters buy professional chemicals designed for coatings. Not a $10 can of sauce from Menards.
5. use silicon plugs to plug off any holes, threads or bearing races
6. bake metal to temp to outgas metal and get oils off metal from hands or prepwork only cast metals need to be outgassed and an ordinary curing oven wont get parts hot enough to burn off oil, finger oils shouldnt be present to begin with. (poor material handling)
7. use hi temp tape to cover anything you dont want coated -powdercoat items
8. bake powder to scheduled temp/time
9. apply clear and bake again orelse its done if no clear is needed.

You can get powdercoating supplies just about anywhere.
example: harbor freight... <------- Gaaaaaaaaarbage
The place you take it to get coated will probably have the silicon plugs and hi temp tape.
Have them cover your vin with hi temp tape before they coat it as well. lol.... amateurs.... a nice making tape skid mark over the vin is always attractive!

Hope that helps....
-------------------------------------------------
I'm not trying rag on anyone, too many people have been misinformed on this process thanks to companies like Eastwood, Columbia coatings, powder by the pound.... they dont care if its done right, all they care about is selling to the consumer that doesnt know any better. They draw people in with the "do it yourself and save money" bullshit. They also dont tell you critical information like the importance of proper media blasting and what it costs to get setup to media blast in a timely fashion. I leaned the hard way. I blasted 2 frames with a small harbor freight blast pot, took each one 6 hours to blast with a 40lb pot and 12.6 CFM air compressor that cost me $950. The blast room I use now would cost someone $100,000 easy and that same frame I could fully blast in about 15 minutes. The frames were machine frames and just needed the pickling/mill scale blasted off, thank god there was nothing more! I would have shot myself if it took any longer. Most of that time was not blast time but was refilling the 40lb pot. Took longer to empty it out. PROPER chemical treatment is also important along with blasting to meet ASTM B117-09 testing.

This is my home process...
I am still in the learning phase of this myself.
your right.. professional coaters, that do this for a living.....pay the big bucks for better equipment and material.
mineral spirits work also....
dont know what the fuck menards is.. sounds like a gay guy store.
your right about outgassing most metals, another reason you would outgas anything, is to hot flock (spray hot) for multiple coats, or if you dont have a thousand dollar gun...
and yes, harbor freight does sell some inferior shit, but for the home coater.. its plenty good enough at a good value.

Oh, and it sounds like your a professional powder coater... thanks for the tips and being nice about it dick! :P

[T-Dubby]

Shit place we have here does everything for $300 unless it's already powdercoated and needs to be stripped.. That' includes candy type coats and such