Stuntride
Yamaha R1 oil change/coolant flush gone bad, need advice, thanks. - Printable Version

+- Stuntride (https://stuntride.the-nags.com)
+-- Forum: Stunt Discussion (https://stuntride.the-nags.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=4)
+--- Forum: Help and How To (https://stuntride.the-nags.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=12)
+--- Thread: Yamaha R1 oil change/coolant flush gone bad, need advice, thanks. (/showthread.php?tid=37028)

Pages: 1 2

Yamaha R1 oil change/coolant flush gone bad, need advice, thanks. - Sunner - 03-02-2012

We were doing an oil change/coolant flush on my buddies bike and ran into a problem. Ill try to keep this short and to the point

What you are looking at in the above picture is an elbow that goes into the bottom of the crankcase of the bike, it is a part of the oil cooling system. We were in a situation which required us to remove this elbow. See diagram below now.

The part that has the blue circle is the above pictured elbow, the blue circle is where it goes into the crankcase, so that is where the crankcase wall is. The elbow goes into the yellow circled thingamajig(waterpump?) which as you can see has two o-rings, that is all inside the crankcase. When we pulled the elbow, we might have pulled out the 2nd red circled o-ring off since only the 1st one was on there(The coolant was flushed prior and there was no oil in the crankcase when we pulled the elbow), we reasembled the elbow thinking that the 2nd o-ring must be in the yellow circled part, long story short the oil became milky after running it a couple minutes, we think that the 2nd 0-ring fell off and now there is water entering the crankcase.


Our solution is to drop the oil pan and just clean everything and see if the ring is there. Anything else that we need to look for? Any tips or suggestions? Do we need to get to the head to clean the valvetrain too since the contaminated oil made its way up there too? I hope I am as clear as possible but please let me know if I need to clarify and thank you.

Yamaha R1 oil change/coolant flush gone bad, need advice, thanks. - RYAN SMITH - 03-02-2012

no need to pull that out for changing oil or coolant.

Yamaha R1 oil change/coolant flush gone bad, need advice, thanks. - Sunner - 03-02-2012


Quote Originally Posted by RYAN SMITH
View Post
no need to pull that out for changing oil or coolant.

Yeah we know that, the coolant drain bolt snapped off as my friend was tightning it. So we removed the elbow to drill and tap the bolt out to replace it. That is the only reason we removed that piece.

Yamaha R1 oil change/coolant flush gone bad, need advice, thanks. - ~03~raven - 03-02-2012


Quote Originally Posted by Sunner
View Post
Yeah we know that, the coolant drain bolt snapped off as my friend was tightning it. So we removed the elbow to drill and tap the bolt out to replace it. That is the only reason we removed that piece.

Should've just used an ez-out to get the snapped bolt out and avoided all of that. No need to drill and tap a snapped bolt, only if you pull the threads out by overtightening.

Yamaha R1 oil change/coolant flush gone bad, need advice, thanks. - maverickxp - 03-02-2012

no offense, but if your buddy is tightening bolts so much that they snap, he has no buisness being anywhere near a motorcycle with tools

and if your referring to a waterpump as a thingamajig, you prob shouldnt be either

newbs fixing their own bikes is how people get hurt

Yamaha R1 oil change/coolant flush gone bad, need advice, thanks. - Rook87 - 03-02-2012

I'm sure they know they screwed it up, so how bout reply back if you got the info to help a fellow rider out. Regardless of there ability to work on bikes.

Yamaha R1 oil change/coolant flush gone bad, need advice, thanks. - Austin913 - 03-02-2012

first and easiest thing I'd check is the water pump. o-ring couldve wound up tangled on the impeller. thats about all I'm good for, good luck!

Yamaha R1 oil change/coolant flush gone bad, need advice, thanks. - Sunner - 03-02-2012


Quote Originally Posted by maverickxp
View Post
no offense, but if your buddy is tightening bolts so much that they snap, he has no buisness being anywhere near a motorcycle with tools

and if your referring to a waterpump as a thingamajig, you prob shouldnt be either

newbs fixing their own bikes is how people get hurt

The bolt was weak to begin with, he barely put pressure on it.

I know you said 'no offense' but how do you expect people to learn about bikes and be proficient at fixing them if they dont try? Everyone is a 'newb' at some point, you get past being a newb with trial and error.

Anyways back on topic, thanks for the tip ~03~Raven, we didnt know that was an option but I'll keep that in mind for the future.

Yamaha R1 oil change/coolant flush gone bad, need advice, thanks. - Sunner - 03-02-2012


Quote Originally Posted by Austin913
View Post
first and easiest thing I'd check is the water pump. o-ring couldve wound up tangled on the impeller. thats about all I'm good for, good luck!

Ill keep that in mind, thanks man.

Yamaha R1 oil change/coolant flush gone bad, need advice, thanks. - ~03~raven - 03-02-2012


Quote Originally Posted by Sunner
View Post
The bolt was weak to begin with, he barely put pressure on it.

I know you said 'no offense' but how do you expect people to learn about bikes and be proficient at fixing them if they dont try? Everyone is a 'newb' at some point, you get past being a newb with trial and error.

Anyways back on topic, thanks for the tip ~03~Raven, we didnt know that was an option but I'll keep that in mind for the future.

Yea man if you ever snap a bolt again go get you a bolt extraction kit. That will get ya fixed up. Like mentioned check the water pump housing to see if it is in there, you could drop the pan to be sure, just R1 pans can be a bitch because of the breather hole, there is a little copper piece of tubing that sits in the oilpan sandwhiched between the pan and the inner lower case. That thing if those orings don't seat right will leak oil when you put the pan back on. So be careful with that. If you can't find the o-ring you can either order it, or hit up ace hardware they have a good selection of o-rings and you can probably find something that will work though you wold want to take the pump and that elbow with you to make sure. I've had to do that with things like o-rings on injectors to make sure the injector and fuel rail would mate up and seat right. As far as flushing the motor it really depends on how much was in there, you could do something like a kerosene treatment, but really the best thing would be to let the bike set a few days for everything to drain into the pan, get a cheap fram filter and put new oil in after the draining. Run it for about 5 minutes after the engine reaches operating temp this will help vaporize any remaing water. Then with some insulated gloves and being careful drain the oil while the motor is still hot. Let it cool and settle for a couple of minutes but no too long. There used to be some stuff I've used once to help remove moisture and crap from the motor I got from autozone so if you wanted you could ask them and put some of that in the oil while doing that oil flush. Then after you drain check the oil see how bad it looks, if it looks like it needs another flush of oil, do it. Make sure when you are done to put another new usused filter on. Should be good to go after that. That's how I've handled bad leaking headgaskets that made milkshakes in the past just to prevent corrosion and unwarranted excessive friction due to the water.