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+--- Thread: F4i Killswitch Bypass Wiring and Key Relocation (/showthread.php?tid=32736)
F4i Killswitch Bypass Wiring and Key Relocation - M.F. Mall Cop - 10-12-2011
Figured I'd write guide for bypassing a killswitch and relocating the key for all the new F4i stunters out there.
Dont want this happening to you:
(Yes I know its not an F4i but im just trying to demonstrate a point. Thanks for the demo Zak and glad your ok)
My harness was having issues so I took it all out, re-taped everything and heatshrinked it. Figured id move my key and bypass the killswitch while I was at it so here it goes. Theres multiple ways to do it but I like having the least amount of things on or near my clipons so id rather move everything somewhere else if possible.
Heres how to bypass the killswitch:
1. Locate starter/ engine stop front harness. Black harness is the starter, white is the key. They should be on the right side of the bike. Theres another similar black plug on the left side. That is for the gauges. Be careful to cut the right harness.
2. Unplug the front black harness
3. Cut the front end of the harness where all of your old controls were with the exception of the Front brake switch. Leave about a foot or 2 of wiring.
So here is the wiring diagram for the ignition and start of the F4i.
4. Cut the W/Bl and the Bl wire short to a few inches. Splice them together in one unit. Then run a longer piece of Bl wire from that splice out. So you have 2 wires going into 1. The switch in the diagram is the stock killswitch on the bike. By splicing the W/Bl with the Bl that bypasses the killswitch. No more cotter pins or worrying about knocking the killswitch and going over the bars.
5. Next cut both the Blu/R and Blu/W short to a few inches and splice them together. Seal the end and wrap it in electrical tape. The new button replaces the the connection. Now it looks like this.
Blu/R and Blu/W spliced together and sealed. Bl/W and Bl spliced together going out to a single wire. Y/R is a foot long wire. W/Gr and Bl/Gr left alone for the brake light switch.
6. Now find a momentary push button. Make sure is is MOMENTARY. This means PUSH IT ON, LET GO OFF. This is also called a MOMENTARY NORMALLY OPEN PUSH BUTTON. You can find them at your local auto/electrons store or off of ebay for cheap. I dont have a picture of it mounted yet but i will be using a small bracket and mounting it where the key used to be.
Note: (you can use a switch or just a regular on/off button but I recommend not doing so because you might forget it on or leave it on for too long and cause it to burn your starter)
The leftover Y/R wire and Bl wire get wired into the push button I just mentioned..
7. Wrap all the wires in electrical tape, mount the push start button somewhere(the old key spot is good), connect the harness back up, test, and stash the harness somewhere in the bike. Now you are all set, no more worrying about flipping the killswitch mid wheelie.
So how do you turn the bike off then if you no longer have a killswitch? Thats what the key is for. Turn the key off and bike turns off. Or slam the brake till the bike stalls. Or lower the kickstand if you havnt bypassed that.
Now. Lets talk about relocating the ignition:
1. First you'll need to remove it. 2 screws and 2 star screws underneath and the ignition is removed. Again the white plug is the key harness. We wont do any cutting of the harness so no worries there.
2. Remove the lid to your airbox followed by the air filter. On the right side you see a giant hole. Thats where we will move the key ignition. Find a way to put it in. Here's what I did.
3. Now since your ignition has some holes in it from the screws you took out you now have a place to use zip ties to hold it steady. Drill 2 small holes in the airbox.
4. Zip tie it down in place through the holes. Connect the white plugs back together, stuff the rest of the harness in the airbox hole, throw the airfilter and airbox back on, and test it.
Turn the key, push your new fancy button, and wheelie worry free of flipping the killswitch or bumping the key.
Wheelie time!!!
F4i Killswitch Bypass Wiring and Key Relocation - anarchist35 - 11-17-2013
i tape half the hole up, actually help it opull on idle a bit more.
F4i Killswitch Bypass Wiring and Key Relocation - sands7389 - 01-17-2014
Did both these mods. Worked great, Wome of my wires were a diff color but i might not have had a stock honda switch housing. All in all this helped, moved my key in the air box and my Ignition button on the front right side of the airbox. Stripped the Throttle housing of the unneeded buttons and wires since i have no use for a front brake switch. Happy to get as many things off my clip ons on as possble. Preciate the write up.
F4i Killswitch Bypass Wiring and Key Relocation - (Brandon) - 02-11-2014
So if I wanted to only bypass the engine stop switch/kill switch on the bars, I would connect the Bl/R to Bl and also connect Bu/W to Y/R? My kill switch has flipped on me before. I want to bypass it completely so the bike is always ready when the key is turned. I want to keep the stock starter button on the handlebars though.
F4i Killswitch Bypass Wiring and Key Relocation - (Brandon) - 02-15-2014
Originally Posted by (Brandon)
F4i Killswitch Bypass Wiring and Key Relocation - nicks00si - 12-19-2014
From what I'm seeing on the diagram, in order to bypass the kill switch and take it out of the system, you would only need to splice the Bl with the W/Bl and ignore everything else. The other wires are for the momentary push to start button.
F4i Killswitch Bypass Wiring and Key Relocation - Cott03_F4I - 06-28-2015
Did anyone have a problems with this ?
F4i Killswitch Bypass Wiring and Key Relocation - gtr1234 - 03-22-2016
how are you running your throttle tube? Throttle kit?
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