+- Stuntride (https://stuntride.the-nags.com)
+-- Forum: Stunt Discussion (https://stuntride.the-nags.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=4)
+--- Forum: Help and How To (https://stuntride.the-nags.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=12)
+--- Thread: Stuntride motorcycle Stunt bike set up (for beginners) (/showthread.php?tid=5448)
Stuntride motorcycle Stunt bike set up (for beginners) - Juca - 03-14-2011
American Ecu into British bike CAN be done I'm impatient I ordered a loom and Ecu from the states, Ecu turned up loom still hasnt so I decided to figure out the differences between the British and American loom, the only difference is the pin outs from the ECU which can be rearranged to pair up in less then two minutes
actually there's the Californian Ecu (the one i bought 
oops )which supposedly needs an o2 sensor but can in most cases just be left alone or so Iv read my bike seams to be running perfectly now but I'll keep you upto dateThings you need
1: American Ecu(preferably not Californian)
2: 5.1 volt Zener
3: 1k ohm 1/4 watt resistor
4: toggle switch
If you do this the immobiliser on the European bike will be bypassed and the ignition barrel will be replaced(if you prefer to keep the ignition barrel instead of the toggle switch you still wire it the same both USA and Europe have the same ignition barrel the only difference is the diode and resistor on the pink wire)
Here's a link to the ignition barrel bypass :
http://www.stuntlife.com/forums/2-st...ch-your-2.html
Once youv done that you need to adjust the Ecu connector wiring to match up with the American Ecu pinout.
There are two connectors one black one grey look at the connectors from the reverse side with the push tab at the top and the pin numbers start from the bottom right I'll upload pics in a second
The bottom row pins go from 1 ( bottom right) to 11 (bottom left)
Then from 12 ( top right) to 22 ( top left)
Black connector:
Pin1:Not connected
Pin2:Pink and Green
Pin3:Pink and Blue
Pin4:Not connected
Pin5:Blue and Green ( Californian Ecu)
Pin6:Brown and Black
Pin7:Yellow and Black(Californian Ecu)
Pin8:White and Blue
Pin9:Green and Pink
Pin10:Blue and Black
Pin11:Red and Blue
Pin12:Not connected
Pin13:Pink and Black
Pin14:Pink and Yellow
Pin15:Not connected
Pin16:Not connected
Pin17:Brown
Pin18:Orange and Black
Pin19:Yellow and Green
Pin20:Green and Pink
Pin21:Yellow and White
Pin22:Red and yellow
Grey connector:
Pin1:Green and Orange
Pin2:Not connected
Pin3:Not connected
Pin4:Orange and White(Californian Ecu)
Pin5:Yellow and Red
Pin6:Blue and White
Pin7:Light Green and Yellow
Pin8:Red and Yellow
Pin9:not connected
Pin10:Green and Red
Pin11:Yellow
Pin12:Green
Pin13:Grey and Blue
Pin14:Not connected
Pin15:Not connected
Pin16:Not connected
Pin17:Pink and Green
Pin18:Pink and White
Pin19:Pink
Pin20:Not connected
Pin21:Green and White
Pin22:Grey
If changing the wiring from British to american all you do is:
Unplug: Pin 4(orange and blue) and pin 15(White and Red) from the
Black Ecu connector(and tape up)then swap the Pink wire from pin20 to
Pin19 on the grey connector the wires will just pull out of the connectors.then your good to go
if you decide to wire in the o2 sensor do it according to this diagram:http://www.tunedinnovations.com/F4iH...elayWiring.gif
if any one needs the pin out for the uk Ecu just give me a shout
Made by : Danny_Darby
Stuntride motorcycle Stunt bike set up (for beginners) - nags - 03-29-2011
"The Complete Idiot's Guide to Motorcycle Diagnostics"
While this is not a complete guide of every possible cause for each problem listed, it will help assist mechanics in troubleshooting some of the most common difficulties they will face.
Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting Difficulty:
Starter motor not rotating:
Starter lockout or neutral switch trouble
Starter motor trouble
Battery voltage low
Relays not contacting or operating
Starter button not contacting
Wiring open or shorted
Ignition switch trouble
Engine stop switch trouble
Main fuse blown
Starter motor rotating but engine doesn’t turn over:
Starter motor clutch trouble
Engine won’t turn over:
Valve seizure
Rocker arm seizure
Cylinder, piston seizure
Crankshaft seizure
Connecting rod small end seizure
Connecting rod big end seizure
Transmission gear or bearing seizure
Camshaft seizure
No fuel flow:
Fuel tap vacuum hose clogged
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel tap clogged
Fuel line clogged
Float valve clogged
Engine flooded:
Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high
Float valve worn or stuck open
Starting technique faulty
(When flooded, crank the engine with the throttle fully open to allow more air to reach the engine.)
No spark; spark weak:
Battery voltage low
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble
Spark plug cap not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
IC igniter trouble
Neutral, starter lockout, or side stand switch trouble
Pickup coil trouble
Ignition coil trouble
Ignition or engine stop switch shorted
Wiring shorted or open
Main fuse blown
Compression Low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/land clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
Poor Running at Low Speed:
Spark weak:
Battery voltage low
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble
Spark Plug cap shorted or not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
IC igniter trouble
Pickup coil trouble
Ignition coil trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Pilot screw maladjusted
Pilot jet, or air passage clogged
Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged
Pilot passage clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Starter plunger stuck open
Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high or too low
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Carburetor holder loose
Air cleaner duct loose
Compression low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/land clearance excessive
Cylinder head warped
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
Other:
IC igniter trouble
Carburetors not synchronizing
Vacuum piston doesn’t slide smoothly
Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Brake dragging
Poor Running or No Power at High Speed:
Firing incorrect:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
IC igniter trouble
Pickup coil trouble
Ignition coil trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Starter plunger stuck open
Main jet clogged or wrong size
Jet needle or needle jet worn
Air jet clogged
Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high or too low
Bleed holes of air bleed pipe or needle jet clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner duct poorly sealed
Water of foreign matter in fuel
Carburetor holder loose
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel tap clogged
Fuel line clogged
Compression low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not.sufficiently tightened down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/land clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface.)
Knocking:
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect
IC igniter trouble
Miscellaneous:
Throttle valve won’t fully open
Vacuum piston doesn’t slide smoothly
Brake dragging
Clutch slipping
Overheating
Engine oil level too high
Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Overheating:
Firining correct:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
IC igniter trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Main jet clogged or wrong size
Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too low
Carburetor holder loose
Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner duct poorly sealed
Air cleaner clogged
Compression high:
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Engine load faulty:
Clutch slipping
Engine oiHevel too high
Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Brake dragging
Lubrication inadequate:
Engine oil level too low
Engine oil poor quality or incorrect
Coolant incorrect:
Coolant level too low
Coolant deteriorated
Cooling system component incorrect:
Radiator clogged
Thermostat trouble
Radiator cap trouble
Thermostatic fan switch trouble
Fan relay trouble
Fan motor broken
Fan blade damaged
Water pump not turning
Water pump impeller damaged
Over Cooling:
Cooling system component incorrect:
Thermostatic fan switch trouble
Thermostat trouble
ClutchFaulty:
Clutch slipping:
Friction plate worn or warped
Steel plate worn or warped
Clutch spring broken or weak
Clutch release mechanism trouble
Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn
Clutch not disengaging properly:
plate warped or too rough
Clutch spring tension uneven
Engine oil deteriorated
Engine oil viscosity too high
Engine oil level too high
Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft
Clutch release mechanism trouble
Stuntride motorcycle Stunt bike set up (for beginners) - Juca - 03-30-2011
"The Complete Idiot's Guide to Motorcycle Diagnostics"
Gear Shifting Faulty:
Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t return:
Clutch not disengaging
Shift fork bent or seized
Gear stuck on the shaft
Shift return spring weak or broken
Shift return spring pin loose
Pawl spring broken
Shift mechanism arm broken
Jumps out of gear:
Shift fork worn
Gear groove worn
Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn
Shift drum groove worn
Neutral positioning pin spring weak or broken
Shift fork pin worn
Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn
Overshifts:
Neutral positioning pin spring weak or broken
Pawl spring broken
Abnormal Engine Noise:
Knocking:
IC igniter trouble
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect
Overheating Piston slap:
Cylinder/piston clearance excessive
Cylinder, piston worn
Connecting rod bent
Piston pin, piston holes worn
Valve noise:
Valve clearance incorrect
Valve spring broken or weak
Camshaft bearing worn
Other noise:
Connecting rod small end clearance excessive
Connecting rod big end clearance excessive
Piston ring worn, broken or stuck
Piston seizure, damage
Cylinder head gasket leaking
Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection
Crankshaft runout excessive
Engine mounts loose
Crankshaft bearing worn
Camshaft chain tensioner trouble
Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide worn
Abnormal Drive Train Noise:
Clutch noise:
Weak or damaged damper
Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive
Clutch housing gear worn
Transmission noise:
Bearings worn
Transmission gears worn or chipped
Metal chips jammed in gear teeth
Engine oil insufficient
Drive chain noise:
Drive chain adjusted improperly
Chain worn
Rear and/or engine sprocket worn
Chain lubrication insufficient
Rear wheel misaligned
Abnormal Frame Noise:
Front fork noise:
Oil insufficient or too thin
Spring weak or broken
Rear shock absorber noise:
Shock absorber damaged
Disc brake noise:
Pad installed incorrectly
Pad surface glazed
Disc warped
Caliper trouble
Other noise:
Bracket, nut, bolt, etc. not properly mounted or
tightened
Oil Pressure Warning Light Goes On:
Engine oil pump damaged
Engine oil screen clogged
Engine oil level too low
Engine oil viscosity too low
Camshaft bearings worn
Crankshaft bearings worn
Oil pressure switch damaged
Wiring damaged
Relief valve stuck open
O-ring at the oil pipe in the crankcase damaged
Exhaust Smokes Excessively:
White smoke:
Piston oil ring worn
Cylinder worn
Valve oil seal damaged
Valve guide worn
Engine oil level too high
Black smoke:
Air cleaner clogged
Main jet too large or fallen off
Starter plunger stuck open
Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high
Brown smoke:
Main jet too small
Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too low
Air cleaner duct loose
Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing
Handling and/or Stability Unsatisfactory:
Handlebar hard to turn:
Steering stem locknut too tight
Bearing damaged
Steering bearing lubrication inadequate
Steering stem bent
Tire air pressure too low
Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates:
Tire worn
Swing arm pivot bearing worn
Rim warped, or not balanced
Wheel bearing worn
Handlebar mounting bolts loose
Steering stem head bolt loose
Handlebar pulls to one side:
Frame bent
Wheel misalignment
Swing arm bent or twisted
Steering maladjusted
Front fork bent
Right/left fork legs oil level unbalanced
Shock absorption unsatisfactory:
(Too hard)
Front fork oil excessive
Front fork oil viscosity too high
Tire air pressure too high
Front fork bent
(Too soft)
Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking
Front fork oil viscosity too low
Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak
Rear shock absorber oil leaking
Brake Doesn’t Hold:
Air in the brake line
Pad or disc worn
Brake fluid leak
Disc warped
Contaminated pad
Brake fluid deteriorated
Primary or secondary cup damaged
Master cylinder scratched inside
Battery Discharged:
Battery faulty (e.g., plates sulphated, shorted through sedimentation, electrolyte level too low)
Battery leads making poor contact
Load excessive (e.g., bulb of excessive wattage)
Ignition switch trouble
Alternator trouble
Wiring faulty
Regulator/Rectifier trouble
Battery Overcharged:
Regulator/Rectifier trouble
Stuntride motorcycle Stunt bike set up (for beginners) - Juca - 03-31-2011
Manuals download: (Honda)
http://hondatech.info/downloads/Moto/
http://hondatech.info/downloads/Moto/
http://www.myxmanuals.com
http://www.cbrextreme.com/index.php?...iew&idev=1
http://www.filedawg.com/WGVAD8NB2CHD...anual.pdf.html
http://blackbears.ru/index_en.php?get=manual
http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp
http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=
http://rapidshare.com/files/10296637...ice_Manual.pdf
http://www.mediafire.com/file/zwqndm...ice Manual.pdf
http://repairmanualclub.com
http://www.cbrforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23443
Here are links to a few CBR Manuals. I did not download all of them, so if some don't work, please let me know. I did try the CBR600 F3 on both a Mac and PC and it worked great as a PDF. I hope the rest do the same. Also, here is a link for all the rest of Honda motorcycles (cars too). Hope this helps people here.
Honda CBR400 Manual (haynes) http://www.mediafire.com/?bg5lzabv512
Honda CBR1000 F Fiszki -
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=VJ0JZ3TZ
Honda CBR1000 F Serwis�wka - http://www.megaupload.com/?d=F1JF5SFY
Honda CBR1000RR 2004
http://www.4shared.com/file/43854200...000RR2004.html
Honda CBR1100 XX 99-02 Service Manual ENG http://www.megaupload.com/?d=V17ICQ2Z
Honda CBR600 F2 91-94 Service Manual ENG http://www.megaupload.com/?d=NP02AIKI
Honda CBR600 F3 95-98 Service Manual ENG http://www.megaupload.com/?d=GM76ECYF
Honda CBR600 F4 99-00 Service Manual ENG http://www.megaupload.com/?d=DGDZW64D
Honda CBR600 RR 03-04 Service Manual ENG http://www.megaupload.com/?d=6WLCFE04
Honda CBR600RR 2006 service manual
http://www.4shared.com/file/76957177...ce_Manual.html
Honda CBR900 RR 96-98 Service Manual ENG http://www.megaupload.com/?d=OEEX4RP8
Honda CBR900 RR 96-98 Service Manual ENG http://www.mediafire.com/?2avnwwfv1xz
Honda CBR929 RR FireBlade 00-01 Service Manual http://www.megaupload.com/?d=J8PHUE1B
Honda CBR954 RR 02-03 Service Manual ENG http://www.megaupload.com/?d=7TNTMKN5
Honda CBR954 RR 02-03 Service Manual ENG http://www.megaupload.com/?d=WLCOX55Z
Stuntride motorcycle Stunt bike set up (for beginners) - Juca - 03-31-2011
AMA Regulations by State :
http://www.americanmotorcyclist.com/...isltn/laws.asp
Stuntride motorcycle Stunt bike set up (for beginners) - Juca - 09-29-2011
MAVERICK'S CUSTOM SEATS :
I recover your seats how u want. 50 for the pair in a solid color.
60 for the pair in 2 tone unless I have to special order something at which point I will get u a quote usually 10-15 more.
If u need new foam or a seat hole cut out I charge an extra 10
Single color 50
2 tone 60
Seat hole created or new foam +10
Special fabric orders.. as requested
Pm for details : http://stuntride.com/vbstunt/private...o=newpm&u=9328
Stuntride motorcycle Stunt bike set up (for beginners) - Juca - 09-29-2011
ON-POINT :
Contact :
Private message (PM) : http://stuntride.com/vbstunt/private...o=newpm&u=8286
Site : http://onpointperformance.com/Home_Page.php
Stuntride motorcycle Stunt bike set up (for beginners) - Juca - 09-29-2011
ON-POINT CRASH CAGES TEST VIDEOS :
Stuntride motorcycle Stunt bike set up (for beginners) - Juca - 10-04-2011
600 RR SWINGARM CONVERSION FOR F4I
This is for informational purposes only. I am not responsible for any errors in this guide. I am in no way encouraging any modification to your motorcycle. Honda spends a lot of money on testing to put out a safe product. This modification may result in injury or death.
Please read all instructions carefully before starting.
Now that that is out of the way�
Items you need to purchase for this conversion.
1. 03-04 600RR swingarm.
2. 03-04 600RR Rear Caliper and Bracket (You will also need the brake line from the master cylinder to the caliper, as the F4i one is not long enough)
3. 1000RR Rear Shock
4. You also need a Honda tool # 07908-4690003 to remove the retaining rings in the swingarm� OR, you can make your own. I made one from an old 1-1/4" socket I had in my toolbox. I�ve heard that you can also make one from a 1-1/8" socket that will work just as well. You can use the locknut itself as a template and grind the socket with a dremel tool or any other tool that will give you the same profile.
5. 6" long 3/8 bolt (Grade 8) with nut and lock washer (or lock nut) and some locktite.
6. Steel tubing to make sleeves (about 20mm ID and I think 25mm OD)
7. Grinder (with cutoff wheel and flap wheel)
8. Standard tools required to remove swingarm, axle, tank, etc.
9. Some way to lift the bike off the ground while keeping swingarm free to be removed.
First thing to do is figure out how to support the back of the bike with the back tire raised off the ground, but keeping the swingarm free.
Now on to the disassembly
1. Remove seat
2. Remove slip on
3. Remove rear wheel and caliper
4. Remove hose clamp holding shock reservoir to subframe
5. Remove upper shock mount (If you unbolt the gas tank and prop up the rear it will help you gain access to this bolt)
6. Remove Swingarm
A. This is where your home made tool, or Honda tool # 07908-4690003 is used to remove the retaining rings from the swingarm bolt.
B. Once the rings are removed and the swingarm bolt is removed you may need a large hex wrench (Or the correct sized lugnut and vicegrips, hay don�t laugh, it worked) and loosen the adjusters that the retaining rings came off of.
C. The swingarm should now come out along with the shock.
Now that the swingarm is out you can prep the 600RR swingarm for instillation.
1. Remove 600RR shock from swingarm
2. Remove the 4 bolts holding the top shock mount to the swingarm
3. The top shock mount must be spun around so the opening is facing the front of the bike, this piece will need to be slightly modified, or it will not fit. If you look at the front and back of the upper shock mount, you will see that one side is rounded on the corners a bit. You must do the same to the other side. A grinder with a flap wheel made quick work of it. When fitting be careful not to force the bolts, it is only aluminum and will strip easily.
4. Once the swingarm is prepped you can install the 1000RR shock with the reservoir facing the front.
5. Remove the chain adjusters from the F4i swingarm and install on the 600RR swingarm
The swing arm is now ready to install.
1. Go ahead and throw the swingarm up in place and just slide the bolt in, and snug the swingarm centering adjusters (large hex the swingarm bolt slides through and the retaining rings thread onto.)
2. Take the lower linkage arm and swing it foreword under the bike. It should swing up into the center stand slot (of course the F4i don�t have a center stand, but the brackets are there)
3. If the linkage swings up and in move to step 5
4. If the linkage don�t fit you will need to move the swingarm centering adjusters to center the arm.
5. Once the swingarm is centered you can go ahead and tighten everything up on the swingarm pivot.
6. Remove the left rear lower fairing hex bolt.
7. Remove the threaded extension behind the bolt.
8. The hole that the extension came out of must be drilled out to accept a 3/8 bolt. (Drill straight)
9. Now you can use a 6 inch long, grade 8, 3/8 bolt with a lock nut/nut & lock washer and some locktite for good measure and bolt the swingarm linkage up between the center stand mounts. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!
Almost there.. Now it�s on to the back wheel.
1. Look at the right side of the wheel, in the axle hole you will see a spacer, mark the spacer where the seal and spacer meet.
2. Remove the spacer and cut, or grind the space almost up to that line, leaving approximately 1/16�-1/8� or so. (If this is not done the inner edge of the caliper bracket will it the rear disk once the axle is tightened) It is better to sneak up on this and trial fit a few times if needed, if you remove too much material you are on your own.
Before
After
3. Remove the caliper from its bracket and install the rear wheel and bracket for a trial fit. When you install everything use the stock washer from the axle and slide it between the caliper bracket and swingarm.
4. Tighten the axle, if the disk is not touching the caliper bracket you are good, if it is remove a little more material from the wheel spacer.
5. Next thing I did was make some sleeves. The 600RR axle is thicker than the F4i so the caliper bracket is loose on the axle and will move when the brakes are applied. I took a piece of black steel pipe, approximately 20mm ID and I think about 25mm OD (I had to bring the OD of the pipe down a bit to fit) I cut 2 sleeves about 1/2 inch wide to take up the extra room in the swingarm (The chain adjusters hold these in place, and I did have to remove about 1/8 of material from the adjusting bolt in the adjusters so the sleeves would not interfere with the axle) I took another piece and cut it the width of the caliper bracket to take up the slop in the caliper bracket.
6. Once the sleeves were made you can bolt the rear wheel on for the final time. (you will need to find a new washer to go behind the axle nut, size is not too critical, but if you want a stock one the part number is 90401-MAS-000 (washer 20X31.5X2)
7. Tighten chain (I was able to use the stock 600RR chain, but I am down 1 tooth in the front on my F4i so your results may vary.) Check your manual for amount of slack you should have when tight.
Only thing left is brakes.
1. Bolt the caliper back on.
2. Remove the old master cylinder to caliper brake line and replace with the 600RR hose
3. Bleed brakes.
4. Reinstall slip-on
5. Reinstall seat
6. Recheck all bolts!!!
7. Recheck all bolts again!!!
8. Did you recheck all the bolts?
Step back and check it out.
Now clean up and go show your friends.
